Fokker Eindecker

[moon puppy]

Chris those are handles for the sliding panels, I guess for visibility, there's also two in the floor.

Kinda like the flap in the floor board of the old stock cars to check tire wear. Maybe they looked out to see if they were off the ground yet.

 

[phantom II]

I figured what they did. Just never seen anything like that before . Pretty clever .

Cheers, Christian B)

 

[moon puppy]

James those pulsinators are sweet, much better than the offering on this kit. I think the DVII had a better representation of it also, wasn't it clear plastic?

 

[Heavens Eagle]

The "squiggely" problem/pattern you guys have been fighting with is a type of finish that was done to bare aluminum. It is the same kind of finish that is done on some watch movements.

I have been trying to find some reference on that finish and how it is done one the real thing to help you solve the problems you have been having. Give me a couple more days and I might have some good ideas for you. :hmmm

 

[jknaus]

The "squiggely" problem/pattern you guys have been fighting with is a type of finish that was done to bare aluminum. It is the same kind of finish that is done on some watch movements.

I have been trying to find some reference on that finish and how it is done one the real thing to help you solve the problems you have been having. Give me a couple more days and I might have some good ideas for you. :hmmm

Check out Engine turned Aluminum. It was a corrosian control method. This might be of interest http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_turning
James

 

[Heavens Eagle]

I knew what it was James. It is called something else when done in a watch though. Same process only on a much smaller scale. With some of the newer fine pigment metalizer paints it might be possible to replicate the look.

On a watch plate they do the finish on he raw brass part just before it gets plated. Once plated it looks really nice. It seems that a fine primer finish could be sprayed on, then polished with micro-mesh. Then a small dowell of the right size with some abrasive on the end could be used to make coarse swirly marks in the primer finish. It doesn't take much to give the effect. Then a light coat of aluminum metalizer over that which should show the finish underneath.

Just a thought. :hmmm

 

[phantom II]

The "squiggely" problem/pattern you guys have been fighting with is a type of finish that was done to bare aluminum. It is the same kind of finish that is done on some watch movements.

I have been trying to find some reference on that finish and how it is done one the real thing to help you solve the problems you have been having. Give me a couple more days and I might have some good ideas for you. :hmmm

Check out Engine turned Aluminum. It was a corrosian control method. This might be of interest http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_turning
James

Thanks James I learned something today . Never knew why that was done, other than the fact that it looks nice

Cheers, Christian B)

 

[moon puppy]

Thanks for smokin' this over guys, getting to the point where I need to work on the outside areas. I'm really wondering if I should go with a really high shine against a really dark metal and then weather/blend it. The effect I had with the Chrome/Flat effect really got lost after weathering. I'm thinking color as opposed to finish is the trick here.

 

[moon puppy]

This is AlcladII Steel as a base and Chrome as the machining.

Not happy with this, in fact it's already stripped and I put a coat of Humbrol 27001 Aluminium Metalcote on and will let that cure before trying again. This is the kit part, not the Aviattic cowl.

Also thinking of trying some of the Buffering Model Masters colors and actually applying varying buffer to see how that looks.

I still think this could be done very well in decal. :hmmm

 

[Brokeneagle]

MP,
I would just go with Testors Chrome silver as the base then squiggle pattern with flat Aluminum using a brush.Keep it simple.
That's how I was going to do it anyway on mine (when I get around to building it)

Ian.

 

[phantom II]

This is AlcladII Steel as a base and Chrome as the machining.

Not happy with this, in fact it's already stripped and I put a coat of Humbrol 27001 Aluminium Metalcote on and will let that cure before trying again. This is the kit part, not the Aviattic cowl.

Also thinking of trying some of the Buffering Model Masters colors and actually applying varying buffer to see how that looks.

I still think this could be done very well in decal. :hmmm

That one just looks of burn metal Bob. :idonno

I agree, it would be good if someone made decals, it wouls simplify things a lot.

Cheers, Christian B)

 

[moon puppy]

MP,
I would just go with Testors Chrome silver as the base then squiggle pattern with flat Aluminum using a brush.Keep it simple.
That's how I was going to do it anyway on mine (when I get around to building it)

Ian.

Model Masters Chrome the same thing isn't it Ian? That's what I used on the inside but I only used a flat clear, had the effect till I started weathering.

I think you're right that seems to be the best combination.

You're right Chris, that's what it's already stripped. :dude

 

[Heavens Eagle]

Hey Bob, this problem has me intrigued. I see this finish put on watch plates all the time, and thus have been able to figure out how it was done. If you want to wait over the weekend, I am going to try some things to see if it can be replicated in plastic and paint. I believe it might be possible, but will have to do some tests to be sure.

 

[moon puppy]

Sounds fun Paul, I'm more focused on the engine also right now, specifically how to mount it with the Taurus engine, I'm probably going to go with Ian's suggestion but still open to testing other ways.

 

[moon puppy]

Paul sorry I didn't get a chance to call you this weekend. I'm lucky to carve out bench time between all the honey doos I get to enjoy.

I did carve out a bit of time.

Squirted some Buff over the fuselage to check the seam up top. Think it's pretty well covered. :woohoo:

Now...picked this up from another forum. Can't find the link here at work will post it later.

Different treatment on the prop, let's see how it goes.

Paint prop Tamiya dark yellow and get a supply of Prisma color pencils.

Start scribblin'

Come up with something like this. Might need more color or less in the lighter color woods. I thnk I need to blend the colors a bit and a seal coat of gloss should finish it out nicely.

Now to the cowl and the machined look of the metal.

This is Humbrol 27001 metal cote...I think. and I took the Prisma silver pencil with a blunt point and started scribbling.

Shows up better with flash but if that's the case, it may not be showing up well enough to the eye. Waht y'all think?

 

[Heavens Eagle]

Paul sorry I didn't get a chance to call you this weekend. I'm lucky to carve out bench time between all the honey doos I get to enjoy.

I did carve out a bit of time.


Now to the cowl and the machined look of the metal.

This is Humbrol 27001 metal cote...I think. and I took the Prisma silver pencil with a blunt point and started scribbling.

Shows up better with flash but if that's the case, it may not be showing up well enough to the eye. Waht y'all think?

Not a biggie on the phone bit Bob, and I didn't get around to experimenting on that metal finish either. I did get some work done on my Stug though and am quite pleased with how it looks so far.

But, backto subject at hand, that machined finish isn't so much squiggles as a bunch of quarter circles where the light reflects from the circular finishes in a light/dark pattern. I have taken a couple of photos of a watch plate that shows this off quite nicely. To really get the finish it will have to be a very smooth metalizer type finish. Maybe a dull aluminum with a bright finish of quarter circles. I will have to post a couple photos I have to illustrate this. ( man I wish I had internet at the house, it would be so much easier!)

The prop looks good, I would make the darker part a bit more solid, but otherwise it really gives the right impression for the lamonations.

 

[lupanzer]

Great effects , Bob...the prop looks superb

Luiz

 

[phantom II]

Paul sorry I didn't get a chance to call you this weekend. I'm lucky to carve out bench time between all the honey doos I get to enjoy.

I did carve out a bit of time.


Now to the cowl and the machined look of the metal.

This is Humbrol 27001 metal cote...I think. and I took the Prisma silver pencil with a blunt point and started scribbling.

Shows up better with flash but if that's the case, it may not be showing up well enough to the eye. Waht y'all think?

Not a biggie on the phone bit Bob, and I didn't get around to experimenting on that metal finish either. I did get some work done on my Stug though and am quite pleased with how it looks so far.

But, backto subject at hand, that machined finish isn't so much squiggles as a bunch of quarter circles where the light reflects from the circular finishes in a light/dark pattern. I have taken a couple of photos of a watch plate that shows this off quite nicely. To really get the finish it will have to be a very smooth metalizer type finish. Maybe a dull aluminum with a bright finish of quarter circles. I will have to post a couple photos I have to illustrate this. ( man I wish I had internet at the house, it would be so much easier!)

The prop looks good, I would make the darker part a bit more solid, but otherwise it really gives the right impression for the lamonations.

This one looks different Paul :hmmm

Cheers, Christian

 

[moon puppy]

Thanks Chris, Paul as you can see, the machining was more random, probably done by hand I guess.

 

[jknaus]

From all I have read the machining is squigles on the Eindecker. Just read a method thats new to me but interesting in Mikitary Modeling where the fellow painted the cowling alclad flat white and then laid down the squigles in alclad flat black. He then misted on Alclad white Aluminum. Doesnt look too bad.
James