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Just a Sherman

OD Squirted

sherman007.jpg


sherman008.jpg


sherman009.jpg


Now to let it cure. It's dead flat, do I need to gloss it up? Model Master Enamel.
 
moon puppy said:
OD Squirted

Now to let it cure. It's dead flat, do I need to gloss it up? Model Master Enamel.
Click to expand...

No, no gloss. I don't even gloss aircraft. The decals can be applied using solvents and they will lay just as flat or flatter than with the gloss clear.

The color and the flatness looks perfect!

That will have to harden at least a week though, and even then, you will have to be very quick when removing the wash and use small areas each time.

I have the luxury of building so many vehicles that I keep track of what order I painted them and always use the first base coated, the first washed. Some of mine have hardened over a year and I never have to be concerned about removing base coat when I wash.

BTW, I haven't been able to spend much time at the bench over the last several days, hopefully, I'll post a new lesson by this evening. When the Diamond T is finished, I will continue with weathering the Jumbo Sherman. It has been washed and ready to detail and drybrush.

Bob
 
sherman007%7E0.jpg


obviously a major malfunction.

Could it be my Rectified Turp is too hot? you can see the pattern of the fabric of the tee shirt I"m using and most of the enamel OD came up with the blot.
 
MP, The reason you can see the fabric imprint means the paint was dissolved. Without being there, it's hard to say. I remember the first time I used it, I had a similar experience, not that bad, but the paint did lift to a degree. From experience, I would guess it's one of two things. You either left the wash on too long or, the paint hadn't hardened sufficiently, or even possibly both.

What brand of paint did you use for the base coat? More than one coat? Airbrush or rattle can?

How long did it harden after the last coat?

How long did it take you to remove the wash from start to finish? As I said at the beginning, you must put it on and immediately remove it. When I wash, I have the T-shirt on my lap. I paint a small area, looks like you did that properly, then immediately begin blotting the wash away. The blotting process on an area that size should only take 20 seconds or less IF the base coat is thoroughly hardened.

Rectified turps is rectified turps, I have used several brands and never experienced any differences.

Good going on testing it on the bottom first.

No big deal, nothing is ruined, WE just have to figure out what caused it. The other guys didn't have this problem, so, it must be something I mentioned above.

If you'd like, drop me an email.

Bob
 
Modelmaster Enamel OD.

It was a couple of coats but nothing too thick.

It's been at least two weeks since I painted it.

I immediately removed the wash.

I think I know what the problem is, this paint is old, it's been thinned a couple of times and returned to the bottle. I know I've read from many folks that this is not best practice.

Here's what I think I can do to fix,
1: a clear coat and allow it to cure.
2: strip this bad paint and get fresh OD and start again.

Whatcha think Dad?

:mpup
 
moon puppy said:
Modelmaster Enamel OD.

It was a couple of coats but nothing too thick.

It's been at least two weeks since I painted it.

I immediately removed the wash.

I think I know what the problem is, this paint is old, it's been thinned a couple of times and returned to the bottle. I know I've read from many folks that this is not best practice.

Here's what I think I can do to fix,
1: a clear coat and allow it to cure.
2: strip this bad paint and get fresh OD and start again.

Whatcha think Dad?

:mpup
Click to expand...

Modelmaster enamel OD. No problem, was it a spray can or did you airbrush it?

It isn't the thickness I am concerned with, it is the thinness of the coat.

Two weeks isn't long, but it still shouldn't have done that.

I've never done what you describe, so I don't know. Since the bottom of the hull is the only thing messed up, I would do either of what you suggested. If it was me, I would probably lightly sand the bad spot, hit it with some more paint, then give it a good coat of clear matt varnish. Then let that set another two weeks. One more thing. when you begin the wash the second time, remember which side of the line across the bottom was repainted and use the other side to test. Also, next time, use about one forth of the area you did this time, and get it off ASAP. Turps, as well as mineral spirits and thinners are all paint solvents. Turps is a bit more aggressive than the others, but, when mastered, is far superior.

Sorry you had this as your first experience.

Bob
 
Hey it's no problem Dad, I've always been one to post my screwups and share with others so they might avoid what I run into.

So you think the base is too thin? it is very thin paint i'm putting down and it was with Air Brush.

Yep, did it on the bottom first on purpose... ;) :mpup
 
moon puppy said:
Hey it's no problem Dad, I've always been one to post my screwups and share with others so they might avoid what I run into.

So you think the base is too thin? it is very thin paint i'm putting down and it was with Air Brush.

Yep, did it on the bottom first on purpose... ;) :mpup
Click to expand...

Yeah, it's possible. Very thin coat + short hardening time = paint lift. I still think a relatively heavy coat of matt varnish might do the trick! If I'm not mistaken, WDS and Terri used spray cans. They will lay as much paint on the model in one coat as in three coats with an airbrush.

BTW, unlike many believe, spray cans do not cover tiny detail, well, at least they don't if applied properly. I do airbrush aircraft models, but on armor and most everything else, I almost always use spray cans for O.D. and German gray. I use an airbrush for camo, but let them sit and harden for months before I wash them.

By the way, There are many ways to get the same or similar effect with weathering. This is my preferred way and for others, it may not be their preferred system. Variety is the spice of life!

Dad
 
bob letterman said:
moon puppy said:
Hey it's no problem Dad, I've always been one to post my screwups and share with others so they might avoid what I run into.

So you think the base is too thin? it is very thin paint i'm putting down and it was with Air Brush.

Yep, did it on the bottom first on purpose... ;) :mpup
Click to expand...

Yeah, it's possible. Very thin coat + short hardening time = paint lift. I still think a relatively heavy coat of matt varnish might do the trick! If I'm not mistaken, WDS and Terri used spray cans. ........

Dad
Click to expand...


For the Record: I used Tamiya acrylics for my base coats (prior to applying the RU wash). So no compatibility problems there. I have been bedeviled in my track painting though. Similar story. I painted the DS (tan rubber band) tracks with Tamiya primer, base coated with Tamiya acrylic (dark grey) and then dry brushed the track horns and the "z" shaped bits on the surface tread (ground side) with Testors "Steel" to good effect. When I applied the Burnt Sienna (BS) wash (with Rec. turp.), it took off all the paint (where the silver enamel dry-brush was) down to the tan colored rubber material! (grey acrylic on the rest of the track not affected). What's up with that? Back to acrylic base coats and maybe dry brush at the end After the BS wash. Live and learn.

Bill
 
For the Record: I used Tamiya acrylics for my base coats (prior to applying the RU wash). So no compatibility problems there. I have been bedeviled in my track painting though. Similar story. I painted the DS (tan rubber band) tracks with Tamiya primer, base coated with Tamiya acrylic (dark grey) and then dry brushed the track horns and the "z" shaped bits on the surface tread (ground side) with Testors "Steel" to good effect. When I applied the Burnt Sienna (BS) wash (with Rec. turp.), it took off all the paint (where the silver enamel dry-brush was) down to the tan colored rubber material! (grey acrylic on the rest of the track not affected). What's up with that? Back to acrylic base coats and maybe dry brush at the end After the BS wash. Live and learn.

Bill

I've never used Tamiya paint except once. I didn't like it at all. I do know a lot of guys swear by it so I'm in a minority.

I haven't got to that point yet in the tutorial, but I do metalize the tracks after the burnt sienna wash is dry. Only the parts that would be in contact with the pavment.

Bob
 
bob letterman said:
I've never used Tamiya paint except once. I didn't like it at all. I do know a lot of guys swear by it so I'm in a minority.

I haven't got to that point yet in the tutorial, but I do metalize the tracks after the burnt sienna wash is dry. Only the parts that would be in contact with the pavment.

Bob
Click to expand...

There I go jumping the gun again. Doh! :blush:

I really like the Tamiya acrylics for air brushing base coats. They dilute well with water, alcohol, or lacquer thinner (I have used the industrial grade (paint dept.) from Home Depot without any problems. (it's also the best thing for cleaning anything! (airbrush, dried paint in cheap brushes, mixing bottles, whatever.))
I thought the dry-brushed silver enamel was a little bit bright, so the wash was applied after the enamel dry-brush. I let the enamel dry several days AND I tested the wash on some dried test-enamel without any problems (so I thought I was good to go). But not so. L&L.

Sorry to pile on your thread Bob (I'll go back to my corner),

Bill
 
bob letterman said:
For the Record: I used Tamiya acrylics for my base coats (prior to applying the RU wash). So no compatibility problems there. I have been bedeviled in my track painting though. Similar story. I painted the DS (tan rubber band) tracks with Tamiya primer, base coated with Tamiya acrylic (dark grey) and then dry brushed the track horns and the "z" shaped bits on the surface tread (ground side) with Testors "Steel" to good effect. When I applied the Burnt Sienna (BS) wash (with Rec. turp.), it took off all the paint (where the silver enamel dry-brush was) down to the tan colored rubber material! (grey acrylic on the rest of the track not affected). What's up with that? Back to acrylic base coats and maybe dry brush at the end After the BS wash. Live and learn.

Bill

I've never used Tamiya paint except once. I didn't like it at all. I do know a lot of guys swear by it so I'm in a minority.

I haven't got to that point yet in the tutorial, but I do metalize the tracks after the burnt sienna wash is dry. Only the parts that would be in contact with the pavment.

Bob
Click to expand...

BoB ,

I feel your pain Brotha' ! I hate DS trax. I can't ever get th paint to stick either. I shot a set of Tiger trax with Vallejo's Black Primer, let it thoroughly dry, shot them with a mix of Tamiya Black & Flat Earth... again letting it throughly dry. Washed it with some Oils, went to dry brush & took it down to th trax color. :vmad

Again I shot another set ( Elephant ) with Tamiya Grey Primer, then did th same process & had th same result ! :sick: ** Also had th exact same result from th DS Tires that came in th Sd.Kfz 7 Flakvierling. ...... after all of that ... I have no use for th DS styrene trax. Either ModelKaston or th Friullies. But with th ModelKaston I would advise an Acrylic wash .... otherwise th washes burn through th track pins - That's My experience any way.

MOONIE,

Shermie is takin shape. Sorry to hear about th paint. .... Lookin forward to th weathering !!
 
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