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Fokker Eindecker

Thanks for the good info guys . This definitely outside my field of knowledge .

Those guys must have really been busy with re skinning . Assuming they would last that long.
I have just enough experience with cloth airplanes to realize it's a lot of work.

These pictures make it easier to understand the vertical streaks seen on fuselages . It also emphasizes the importance of leather flight suits .

What a fireball this would make :vmad

I completely agree with the happy part Bob. I'm just trying to get smarter without using the hotel :rotf

Cheers, Christian B)
 
Man what a good couple of days. Wish I had gotten my garage cleaned up before Christmas break started, no telling how much I could have gotten done.

Today was a session that's rare, I didn't want to stop but I need to so things will cure and settle down.

I have to more support lines to run and a lot of touch up paint to do.

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here's the elevator control horns in place. I didn't take into account the Rudder control horns, they JUST clear but not by much, the elevator horns should be a bit wider on the axis and taller. The bottom ones could not be taller but they clear all the bracing for the tail skid.

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Here's a shot of the pulley. The one on the tweezers was the first version that tweezer launched and was recovered during excavations under the workbench.
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It's really too big but looks better. I'll keep it around and us it somewheres..not sure where.


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And the last shot till I get a sure nuff finish on this. :coolio :pilot :drinks

Oh yeah, Thanks to Chuck for mentioning that .2mm Albion Nickel Silver Rod. I picked up some on my last order from Sprubro. I was wrackin' my brain trying to figure out how to work the control lines back on the tail section. Then figure to go fishin'. I got a piece of the rod, turned the end into a really tiny loop and fished it up the openings, got to a point where the rod just popped out the other side without even trying. Saved the day! :drinks
 
jknaus said:
I think instead of blotches it would be an area effect. The oil soaked in and ran up wherever there was something that could give it capillary effect such as ribs and stringers and then blossomed from there. Its a hard weathering to do. Wish I knew how.
Click to expand...

Not so hard James, get to the point you're ready to oil it up and get a dead flat finish on the areas you want to make look soaked. Thin your wash, I used Vallejo Oil and Dirt wash, and apply slowly. That's where I screwed up, that impatiences things again. You'll see the capillary action right off. give it a shot. :drinks
 
Thanks James but don't you give up nuffin'!

Hell look at what I had to do to the garage to get my mojo back. I didn't even have room to work this kit back and forth till I cleared out the junk. And so far I haven't lost anything this time, may have taken a few minutes to remember where I put something :rotf
 
With the exception of a brass plate to put the Fokker decal on I'm done, I think.

Man it's been a while since I finished one, nice start of the year. :beer

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Think I'm going to take this to the show next week and see how it fares.

Thanks to everyone for following along, giving suggestions and encouragement. Couldn't have done it without your input! :drinks :drink
 
Most impressive Bob, still not ready to try mine yet but I'm glad to see you were able to pull it off and with a great finish ! (y) :notworthy
 
Thanks guys, I know I over did the oil stuff. Just got carried away.

I can't say enough about the EZ-Line, it makes all the difference in the world with rigging. I got hung up on a line when I was reaching in to touch up some paint, the thing pulled like 4 or 5 inches before it snapped away but it didn't break.

I am going do another, I gotta, I got another complete engine to build! :pilot
 
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Thinking maybe I should put the Fokker decal on the wood itself and put polyurethane coating over the top of it.

Whacha think?
 
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