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These Go To Eleven TASK COMPLETE!
- Thread starter Iron Mike
- Start date
phantom II
Master at Arms
These Go To Eleven
The vail is finally lifted
Looks like a lot of work Mike . :salute
Really like the way the Tamiya buffed out
Cheers, Christian B)
The vail is finally lifted
Looks like a lot of work Mike . :salute Really like the way the Tamiya buffed out
Cheers, Christian B)
Iron Mike
Master At Arms And Resident Curmudgeon
These Go To Eleven
Well, the weather finally broke and I took advantage of the cool morning to lay down the color for the rail. Tamiya Bright Red rattle can, fresh from the paint booth.
We'll set that aside for a couple days, then polish it out. B)
From there, I broke out a highly technical and complicated material, what is know in these parts as a Loomium Nail.
I bought a broken box of these for a buck and I think they will be just the ticket for my front hub covers. I cut the head off'n it and chucked it into the trusty DeWalt.
I used a file and sanding sticks to round it over and polish the end to a satin finish.
Then using my Mark I Eyeball, I clamped a stop into my ol' miter box and cut the hub cap free.
Using the stop makes it easy to get the parts the same length. :coolio
Here they are installed on the front wheels.
The air scoop lacked details, so I painted it with Alclad Polished Aluminum over Tamiya Black and used an old piece of Tamiya netting (came in an old rally car kit, I think) to break up the view down the carb throats.
Much more to come.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wL1oR5Jv22g
:drinks
Well, the weather finally broke and I took advantage of the cool morning to lay down the color for the rail. Tamiya Bright Red rattle can, fresh from the paint booth.
We'll set that aside for a couple days, then polish it out. B)
From there, I broke out a highly technical and complicated material, what is know in these parts as a Loomium Nail.
I bought a broken box of these for a buck and I think they will be just the ticket for my front hub covers. I cut the head off'n it and chucked it into the trusty DeWalt.
I used a file and sanding sticks to round it over and polish the end to a satin finish.
Then using my Mark I Eyeball, I clamped a stop into my ol' miter box and cut the hub cap free.
Using the stop makes it easy to get the parts the same length. :coolio
Here they are installed on the front wheels.
The air scoop lacked details, so I painted it with Alclad Polished Aluminum over Tamiya Black and used an old piece of Tamiya netting (came in an old rally car kit, I think) to break up the view down the carb throats.
Much more to come.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wL1oR5Jv22g
:drinks
phantom II
Master at Arms
These Go To Eleven
I like it when you use such highly technical stuff :woohoo:
Cheers, Christian B)
I like it when you use such highly technical stuff :woohoo:
Cheers, Christian B)
These Go To Eleven
All that for hubcaps?
All that for hubcaps?
ij001
Well-known member
These Go To Eleven
I know this place is highly populated by Americans, but I have to ask... Guys, why do you have a problem with pronouncing "Aluminium" ??? - enquiring minds need to know
That aside, I think the hard yards you're putting-in on this build, Mike are going to yield a superb project at the end. Great modelling and improvisation, matey.
Ian.
I know this place is highly populated by Americans, but I have to ask... Guys, why do you have a problem with pronouncing "Aluminium" ??? - enquiring minds need to know
That aside, I think the hard yards you're putting-in on this build, Mike are going to yield a superb project at the end. Great modelling and improvisation, matey.
Ian.
randy_ditton
Master at Arms
These Go To Eleven
Hey Mike,
Great looking progress so far :dude :dude :dude :dude
Like those hubcaps!!!!!
Randy
Hey Mike,
Great looking progress so far :dude :dude :dude :dude
Like those hubcaps!!!!!
Randy
Iron Mike
Master At Arms And Resident Curmudgeon
These Go To Eleven Paint Secrets REVEALED!!
Many thanks to all for your comments, I really appreciate the feedback.
'Loomium? That's just the tip of the Southern vernacular, but still not as mystifying as the game of Cricket. :idonno
What's on the bench this morning? The bucket body is ready to polish out. In my opinion, it is really hard to beat the Tamiya TS spray paints for auto models. They provide scale sized pigments and excellent finishes when applied properly. All paints will have a texture to them when dry, the key is to make the texture as small as possible by applying the paint at the right distance from the surface and at the right speed over the model with each pass. This takes some practice and discipline, I like to build up my paint in thin layers with twenty minutes between passes. After 3-4 coats, you'll get something that looks like this.
If you got any dust in your paint, I find it best to stop painting and let the finish dry at least overnight. Using 600 grit sandpaper and LOTS of water, carefully sand out the ferch, taking care not to sand through the edges. When the body is completely dry (you can use a hairdryer to speed the process) begin the steps again. If you got orange peel, you need to keep sanding until the surface is flat. Using a block with the sandpaper wrapped around it will help keep the surface flat. So if you have the surface where you want it, proceed using these steps.
I LOVE this product, Tamiya Rubbing/Polishing Compound. The tube lasts a very long time and the results are unmatched.
This tube is more than 10 years old and still works like magic. Break out that old Pearl Jam era flannel shirt, tear you off a square, apply a little dab of Compound and start rubbing in a circular motion. You'll start to see paint appear on the rag, that's how you know it's working.
After a few minutes of work, the texture disappears and you start getting that gloss we all dig!
Remember, if you try to polish out orange peel without sanding, all you get is shiny orange peel and NO ONE digs that!
Keep at it until you get the shine you're happy with.
You could add clear coat over your paint before polishing, I chose not to for this example to show what you can do with paint alone. It should be pointed out that you CAN buff through the edges and raised details, so use caution around them. If you do rub through the paint, all is not lost, simply wash the body thoroughly, lightly wet sand the entire model and repaint. You can do a panel repair in some cases, but I usually just hit the whole thing again. No masking involved that way and color match is insured. If I'm clear coating a build, I'll paint as above, then allow a couple days for the paint to cure, wetsand and add the clear. Since I paint in my garage, there's usually a speck or two that appear in the wet paint. Going slowly allows the paint to gas out, in other words, the solvents evaporate. If you trap the solvents under another layer, you can cause yourself all kinds of grief. Patience, Grasshopper. :zen
Hope this sheds light on the glossy paint mysteries and helps you gain hot rod enlightenment.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Um1lA9m4wL0
:drinks
Many thanks to all for your comments, I really appreciate the feedback.
'Loomium? That's just the tip of the Southern vernacular, but still not as mystifying as the game of Cricket. :idonno
What's on the bench this morning? The bucket body is ready to polish out. In my opinion, it is really hard to beat the Tamiya TS spray paints for auto models. They provide scale sized pigments and excellent finishes when applied properly. All paints will have a texture to them when dry, the key is to make the texture as small as possible by applying the paint at the right distance from the surface and at the right speed over the model with each pass. This takes some practice and discipline, I like to build up my paint in thin layers with twenty minutes between passes. After 3-4 coats, you'll get something that looks like this.
If you got any dust in your paint, I find it best to stop painting and let the finish dry at least overnight. Using 600 grit sandpaper and LOTS of water, carefully sand out the ferch, taking care not to sand through the edges. When the body is completely dry (you can use a hairdryer to speed the process) begin the steps again. If you got orange peel, you need to keep sanding until the surface is flat. Using a block with the sandpaper wrapped around it will help keep the surface flat. So if you have the surface where you want it, proceed using these steps.
I LOVE this product, Tamiya Rubbing/Polishing Compound. The tube lasts a very long time and the results are unmatched.
This tube is more than 10 years old and still works like magic. Break out that old Pearl Jam era flannel shirt, tear you off a square, apply a little dab of Compound and start rubbing in a circular motion. You'll start to see paint appear on the rag, that's how you know it's working.
After a few minutes of work, the texture disappears and you start getting that gloss we all dig!
Remember, if you try to polish out orange peel without sanding, all you get is shiny orange peel and NO ONE digs that!
Keep at it until you get the shine you're happy with.
You could add clear coat over your paint before polishing, I chose not to for this example to show what you can do with paint alone. It should be pointed out that you CAN buff through the edges and raised details, so use caution around them. If you do rub through the paint, all is not lost, simply wash the body thoroughly, lightly wet sand the entire model and repaint. You can do a panel repair in some cases, but I usually just hit the whole thing again. No masking involved that way and color match is insured. If I'm clear coating a build, I'll paint as above, then allow a couple days for the paint to cure, wetsand and add the clear. Since I paint in my garage, there's usually a speck or two that appear in the wet paint. Going slowly allows the paint to gas out, in other words, the solvents evaporate. If you trap the solvents under another layer, you can cause yourself all kinds of grief. Patience, Grasshopper. :zen
Hope this sheds light on the glossy paint mysteries and helps you gain hot rod enlightenment.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Um1lA9m4wL0
:drinks
These Go To Eleven Paint Secrets REVEALED!!
This is a great tutorial on how to get that glassy look of a NMF also. Looks great Mike. :coolio
This is a great tutorial on how to get that glassy look of a NMF also. Looks great Mike. :coolio
phantom II
Master at Arms
These Go To Eleven Paint Secrets REVEALED!!
Wow, you got that brick to shine Mike :coolio
Good job Mike
Cheers, Christian B)
Wow, you got that brick to shine Mike :coolio
Good job Mike
Cheers, Christian B)
Iron Mike
Master At Arms And Resident Curmudgeon
These Go To Eleven I KNOW THE PIECES FIT!
Thanks, guys! Making the most of a couple days off, so actually fitting up all the parts. This old kit is missing many elements and it didn't help matters that I decided to transplant an engine that wasn't intended to reside in that frame. This kind of sums things up.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_yNAABKD4IA
Pointed sticks, eh? :hmmm
So here's the pieces.
The kit Moon tank was way too big and had no detail, all the others I had in the spares box were too, so I made one that fits in the remaining space.
Starting with a piece of 1/4" aluminum rod, I rounded the ends with a file while the piece was turning in the drill press. A small brass bolt provides the gas cap and I bent brass strip around the tank for the supports.
Combinations of Alclad, Humbrol and Testors Metalizers provide the color pallete.
A fire bottle was pilfered from another kit via the parts bin, painted Tamiya Italian Red and detailed with Bare Metal Foil.
The exhaust headers for the Allison are hollow on the back sides and are closed ended, so borrowing a tip from another builder, I filled the backs and molded in some aluminum tubing on the ends with Aves.
I'll post a closer photo later.
Digging deep into the spares, I found a tach decal, there were no details on the kit piece. Can you spot the good luck charm?
Getting closer.
Whew! The body still fits after being test fitted a gazillion times.
Well, that's today's update, Kool Katz!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bd2B6SjMh_w
:drinks
Thanks, guys! Making the most of a couple days off, so actually fitting up all the parts. This old kit is missing many elements and it didn't help matters that I decided to transplant an engine that wasn't intended to reside in that frame. This kind of sums things up.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_yNAABKD4IA
Pointed sticks, eh? :hmmm
So here's the pieces.
The kit Moon tank was way too big and had no detail, all the others I had in the spares box were too, so I made one that fits in the remaining space.
Starting with a piece of 1/4" aluminum rod, I rounded the ends with a file while the piece was turning in the drill press. A small brass bolt provides the gas cap and I bent brass strip around the tank for the supports.
Combinations of Alclad, Humbrol and Testors Metalizers provide the color pallete.
A fire bottle was pilfered from another kit via the parts bin, painted Tamiya Italian Red and detailed with Bare Metal Foil.
The exhaust headers for the Allison are hollow on the back sides and are closed ended, so borrowing a tip from another builder, I filled the backs and molded in some aluminum tubing on the ends with Aves.
I'll post a closer photo later.
Digging deep into the spares, I found a tach decal, there were no details on the kit piece. Can you spot the good luck charm?
Getting closer.
Whew! The body still fits after being test fitted a gazillion times.
Well, that's today's update, Kool Katz!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bd2B6SjMh_w
:drinks
Gator
Well-known member
These Go To Eleven
Y'all's funny way of sayin' stuff is how I learned to spell "aluminum".
I know this place is highly populated by Americans, but I have to ask... Guys, why do you have a problem with pronouncing "Aluminium" ??? - enquiring minds need to know
Y'all's funny way of sayin' stuff is how I learned to spell "aluminum".