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Tamiya LaFarrari 1:24

Might I suggest a dab of clear enamel to adhere the metal badges? It works for me on those pesky Tamiya badges as well as, PE scripts and auto trim. It dries clear and glossy, blending with the surrounding paint. (y)
 
Excellent idea Mike, there are half a dozen other similar metal badges so i will give it a go. On these two i used a sharpened wooden cocktail stick to apply a minute amount of super glue but the risk is the glue will fog the CF decals and you only get one chance to get the badges straight ;)
 
The clear enamel thing works well, I think you'll like it. Dr Mike's CA will not fog if you have need for a super glue, Sprue Brothers carries it or you can contact him directly. There's a couple reviews of the product here on the forum. Looking forward to your updates, out to be a super super car when you get through with it. :good:
 
A quick update, still learning with the decals. I got them on to the rear under tray quite well but then gave it two coats of Tamiya clear gloss and the carbon fiber effect completely disappears :) the decals obviously rely on a contrast of gloss and semi gloss to give the effect and i seem to have cancelled that out ? anyway one light coat seems to stick them down and doesnt do any harm.



This whole chassis will have to be covered in CF decals in all exposed areas....including the interior, basically the shell is constructed from CF



These are the inner wheel arches, i,m getting better at this decal lark, should have it sorted by the next model :) I will need to order bulk Micro-sol :)
 
You will have to excuse me if i think out loud on this build, lots of new challenges and me with very little experience of cars. As i am doing this in white i thought i would like to trim the seats in white, so red seats with white piping. trouble is my hand is not steady enough to paint 0.5mm stripes so i am thinking of masking them...
To this end i have painted the seats white, will mask off the piping and then spray red......I mean what could possibly go wrong :)

 
If you burnish your tape good and tight, then spray another light coat of white or clear to seal the tape, you should be just fine. B)
 
If you burnish your tape good and tight, then spray another light coat of white or clear to seal the tape, you should be just fine. B)

Great idea about sealing the tape Mike i was worried that as the tape was so thin the paint might bleed under , this is where these threads are so good :) I have found some masking tape 0.020" wide :) aprrox 0.5mm which i think might do the job if i can get such a narrow strip to stick.....
 
Its actually quite difficult to photograph Carbon fibre as its dependant on the light angle and of course the car is all different angles.



The only way to do these decals is one piece at a time and a ton of Micro-sol this means you can't do the next bit until the first bit had dried and taken shape and there are over 120 bits :). That's why i have started playing about with the seats while i wait for the decals to dry.
 
I have used a hair blow dryer to speed the drying process, go low heat and medium speed?

The decals look great. :good:
 
OOOOOOHHHH it so nearly worked :(

I got some bleeding under the masking tape but i suppose given the curves i was trying to follow and the width of the tape its was always going to happen. anyway its saveable i think so i will have a go at tidying up the white lines and report back :)

White with the masking tape in position



Red over the white and tape



A shot to show scale/size



And the finished, well sort of finished thing. I'm going to make up a wooden blade from a cocktail stick and see if i can clean the red off the white piping where it has bled through, if not it will be a fine brush and a steady hand.
Not given up yet but i could just strip and start again so nothing lost.

 
I buy Swan morton blades in packs of 500 :)

The paint is tamiya sprays, Matt white and Italian red with a flat coat.
 
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