Dragon M4A1 75mm USMC

[The Zod]

 

[Sherman 18]

OK so I jumped the gun and started painting (without the missing strap)

I'm trying something new for me, Tamiya paint. I also tried some pre-shading

I first shot some white then black

then I added some khaki drab

then OD,

here the parts from Shapeways seem to be bleeding :hmmm

I think I went one coat to much on the hull and lost some of my pre-shading, but I still have some camo to put on it so maybe I can play with it. I'm off to the store to get some silly putty :geek

 

[moon puppy]

Think I'd rather do a Lee myself, Sherman name still shakes up thing down around these parts...

Looks great Jeff

So a Grant is out too :tomato

I'll match it with a Stuart!

No Sheridans please...

 

[moon puppy]

It looks great, really like how that turned out so far, seems already dusty and faded.

I think I went one coat to much on the hull and lost some of my pre-shading, but I still have some camo to put on it so maybe I can play with it. I'm off to the store to get some silly putty :geek

That's always my problem with preshade.

 

[ij001]

Think I'd rather do a Lee myself, Sherman name still shakes up thing down around these parts...

Build an orange Charger then, Bob. :fencing

So, not three-tone Iwo Jima camo then... shame

Ian

 

[lupanzer]

Nice effects,Sherman...I like it

Luiz

 

[Sherman 18]

Thanks guys. Sorry no Iwo one this time


Well not sure what to do now :vmad I will show you guys how this went down
:zen :zen :zen :zen :zen :zen :zen :zen :zen :zen :zen :zen :zen :zen :zen :zen

AS the story goes, I still have problems spraying Tamiya paint, as in getting it fine enough for me to free hand and not have over spray. I thought no problem I'll just mark off the areas with silly putty for the camo

First I added the missed strap.

I then used silly putty to outline the camo

Then I sprayed German gray for the black. Now the fun started.

The silly putty did, well three things;
1) masked off the areas and kept the over spray away
2) left an outline of where it was placed hmy:
3) stuck so bad it lifted paint and broke parts off Even pulled off some of the casting numbers I added :vmad

At this point I'm thinking of scraping this hole thing. I told myself no wait, when the weathering is done this will all work out. :zen :zen :zen :zen

I painted the marking, not much just some numbers

I did not take a photo of is I tried some oils on the bottom and it pulled all the paint down to the base white.

I'm really really not happy. I'm thinking of shooting it with different paint, then seeing what happens. I'm going to eat some breakfast and maybe I'll just repaint it before going to bed.

 

[moon puppy]

Wow! Pulled up Tamiya? What was the base, Tamiya white? Try this, scrub off the silly putty residue, do your repairs and touch up the paint then seal it with an Acrylic Gloss and let that cure before masking again. Then do the camo again. I'm thinking the silly putty would stick less to the gloss surface as it would a flat one.

 

[Sherman 18]

Wow! Pulled up Tamiya? What was the base, Tamiya white? Try this, scrub off the silly putty residue, do your repairs and touch up the paint then seal it with an Acrylic Gloss and let that cure before masking again. Then do the camo again. I'm thinking the silly putty would stick less to the gloss surface as it would a flat one.

Thanks MP

Pulling it up bad. it is even rubbing off when I touch it. Really do not want to strip it. A good seal was a thought. Going to have to order some. Any suggestions?

 

[moon puppy]

Alclad II Aqua Clear, Future (get that at Lowes and sprays out of the bottle), Model Masters Acrylic Gloss and they have a Flat/semiflat. I've been playing with the art supply brand Liquitex varnish. Last night I tested it's Matt Varnish on some old builds, it worked well so I flat coated the IL2 with it. I'm sure their Gloss varnish will work. Got that at Hobby Lobby.

Sending :zen

 

[SA Dave]

I am no real help But maybe the silly putty had an oily residue that penetrated the paint (I had that on a cheap chinese blue tack once) I think Bob is right with an sealing coat Maybe humbrol Rattle can gloss.

 

[MrT]

What are you using to thin your oil paint? Never had trouble with oil wash effecting Tamiya acrylic paint.

 

[Sherman 18]

What are you using to thin your oil paint? Never had trouble with oil wash effecting Tamiya acrylic paint.

I used a PPG enamel reducer for automotive paint. I have used it before with oils and not had a issue, but the paint was cleared with three or for coats of Testors lacquer clear and had sat for a couple of months. About 6 years ago I painted a tank with Tamiya paint and used oils with out a clear with in hours of painting and had no issue. Maybe my paint is getting old or I reduced it to much or it was not cured. It has been wet and humid here last couple of days. Any reducer I can get in town does not work with the oils. I'm going to have to remember to get something next time I'm in Denver.

 

[Sherman 18]

Alclad II Aqua Clear, Future (get that at Lowes and sprays out of the bottle), Model Masters Acrylic Gloss and they have a Flat/semiflat. I've been playing with the art supply brand Liquitex varnish. Last night I tested it's Matt Varnish on some old builds, it worked well so I flat coated the IL2 with it. I'm sure their Gloss varnish will work. Got that at Hobby Lobby.

Sending :zen

If I change the paints I'm using going to have to try some of these. Thanks MP

 

[Sherman 18]

Thanks guys for the suggestions, MP and Dave. Worse part about living in Northwest Kansas just can't run out and get something.

Why do I not use Tamiya paint very much is a number of years ago I painted a car with it. Looked great I went and taped off some strips, then pulled the tape and the base coat came with it. Also years ago a friend cleared a plane with Tamiya paint and it turned white. Since then I have been afraid of clearing a Tamiya paint. I know things have changed since then but I have not been paying a attention on how people have been or using. I was happy with the same ol' enamel I been using. I think if I can get this to work it will give me a extra level for a different look to some projects. :idonno But the pre-shading on one color vehicles looks so cool when done right.

Well I tried some Testors lacquer gloss clear as I have used for years (plus it was setting next to the airbrush) and it seemed to help. :hmmm
Check it out. I figured "Hey why not it is already broke, can't make it worse."

I put it on heavy too. Going to let it cure for 24 hours or so then hit it with Testors lacquer flat and see what happens.

 

[Sherman 18]

Oh, another thing I started using on the paint job is I have changed on how I clean the airbrush. I saw something for a guys who airbrushes for a living and he uses carb cleaner in a spray can after each color and or use. It was said that it cleans and lubes the airbrush without taking it apart. So I got myself a can to try. Might have helped me or made it worse, but my airbrush is clean

 

[Phil]

Let's see if I can add some help here, First, that silly putty looks too ''new'' yes the oils will stain the paint, much like our Aussie blu tac will - and it's not a cheap Chinese knockoff so even the "good stuff" will do it.

Roll it out with your hands, or add some used putty that has dried out a bit ( if it does like our blu tac )

Fix = don't do anything, just use testors clear cote lacquer rattle can.

When finished - Testors flat cote lacquer rattle can.

Stains will go


Basecoat for any acrylic - Tamiya rattlecans A/S or T/S - tough as and you will never get acrylic paint lift again.

http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/list/airmodel_spray/kit86501.htm

Just don't use the A/S and T/s cans over any paint - it will strip it !

It's synthetic lacquer paint.

I put it on heavy too. Going to let it cure for 24 hours or so then hit it with Testors lacquer flat and see what happens.

You need to slow down your coats using Testors rattles, if you can spray in sunlight - don't laugh - it works
better!

24 hours may be enough dry time - give it a smell - if you still get a strong odor leave it some more.

those last photo's look good, I think you have it on the recovery road now.

HTH

 

[moon puppy]

Oh, another thing I started using on the paint job is I have changed on how I clean the airbrush. I saw something for a guys who airbrushes for a living and he uses carb cleaner in a spray can after each color and or use. It was said that it cleans and lubes the airbrush without taking it apart. So I got myself a can to try. Might have helped me or made it worse, but my airbrush is clean

Yeah I think carb cleaner might be a bit volatile for our stuff. But you know, I think if you rinse it with some Windex maybe, it'll clear out any residue. Just a thought.

Testors clear was one I was going to mentioned but figured it would be harder for you to get a hold of, go figure. Yeah I think you're good with it. Let it cure up and give it a shot again Jeff.

:dude

 

[jknaus]

 

[Sherman 18]

Well I was cussing the Model Gods early this morning, bad too. It turns out they had a plan for me. I found some interesting pictures tonight, while looking for photos on USMC M3 gun motor carriages. These photos left me telling myself see there was a reason.

USMC M4A1 #9 on Cape Gloucester

the first three I have seen before and it is hard to tell where the camo is.

this one is a great color shot

To me it looks like my camo is really off anyways.