Lesson One. the basic wash Part 1

[bob letterman]

Thanks for covering this from top to bottom Bob- because i AM a novice! SA Dave did ask my question about using this on different paints- though I'm curious about enamel silvers like the Model Master paints, could this turpentine/ oil wash hurt THEM? Curious because silver is such a touchy color to mess with . Thanks for the inform here- alot of help! CR

Actually, that's a good question!

Whenever I use oils or enamels, I always use the rectified turpentine to thin or mix them. The only enamels I use are Humbrols and Testor's. The makers of Artist's rectified turpentine should use me as a spokesman. I love the stuff. It acts like any other thinner, the major difference comes in the application as well as the final finish.

Whenever I have used thinners or mineral spirits to wash, one thing I don't like it it tends to act like water on a waxed car finish. It doesn't flow well. It tends to ball up into little splotches. The turps flows like paint. The other thing is that when using thinner or mineral spirits in a wash, sometimes it will dry flat and sometimes not. Even if it does, it always seems to have these tiny thin lines between applications. The Turps never do that, they make the oil blend softly.

I have used rectified turpentine with all metallic enamels, no problem from the Humbrol buffable metallics to the Testor's gold, silver, brass and copper paints.

Now, if you mean your base coat was a Model Master silver or gold, then I have to tell you, I don't know, I have never washed any model with a silver base coat. I assume you are talking about a natural aluminum finish on an aircraft. I honestly don't know.

Bob

 

[kryptosdaddy]

You may have solved a problem for me that I was blaming on myself-lumpiness or wash out in paint thinned with paint thinner- I use Crown's brand because it's common. I was thinking my jars and tools were contaminating my mixes(I'm a world away from being a neat freak), but from what you are saying it's probably a chemical reaction. I'll get some of this and try it out- thanks. CR

 

[Barney]

What is the difference between rectified turpentine and the regular stuff?

 

[kryptosdaddy]

I have used rectified turpentine with all metallic enamels, no problem from the Humbrol buffable metallics to the Testor's gold, silver, brass and copper paints.

Now, if you mean your base coat was a Model Master silver or gold, then I have to tell you, I don't know, I have never washed any model with a silver base coat. I assume you are talking about a natural aluminum finish on an aircraft. I honestly don't know.

Bob

I'm using MM Chrome silver for a base on a scratch build-it will not be the only color on the main body. There are no panel lines or very complex curves but there are a couple of details where I feel paint is to thin - and messy for my skill level, to get a decent wash into some areas- live and learn! Thanks again. CR

 

[bob letterman]

What is the difference between rectified turpentine and the regular stuff?

Barney,

Ever hear of the difference between night and day? Even more than that. The gum turpentine you buy at the hardware store will destroy your model in short order! How do I know that? I tried it once. I was using rectified turpentine because way back then I usually bought everything at an art store. Rectified turpentine is pricey and one day, I had that same thought when I was in a hardware store. A lot cheaper, how much difference could there be?

One of my big lessons, it was a gooey, high gloss mess that even the old method of removing paint from a plastic model by immersing it in brake fluid for a few hours wouldn't work. It went into the trash can.

I am certain that some who are following this looked at the second photo in lesson two and said, No way!

I forgot to mention when I started this that my method of weathering isn't pretty during the process. What goes on during the process is irrelevant. Only the results when it is complete matter. I remember when Lewis Pruneau worked for VLS, I would have him doing various Verlinden conversions and weathering them for display at the trade fairs. It was a joke around VLS at the time about what a mess that him, the work area and the model would be when he was working on it. I mean paint everywhere, all over his face, hands and even his optivisors. It was hilarious! But when it was finished and dry, it was a work of art. The moral of the story is, it ain't over till the fat lady sings. :yipee

 

[bob letterman]

I have used rectified turpentine with all metallic enamels, no problem from the Humbrol buffable metallics to the Testor's gold, silver, brass and copper paints.

Now, if you mean your base coat was a Model Master silver or gold, then I have to tell you, I don't know, I have never washed any model with a silver base coat. I assume you are talking about a natural aluminum finish on an aircraft. I honestly don't know.

Bob

I'm using MM Chrome silver for a base on a scratch build-it will not be the only color on the main body. There are no panel lines or very complex curves but there are a couple of details where I feel paint is to thin - and messy for my skill level, to get a decent wash into some areas- live and learn! Thanks again. CR

CR, my advice would be to use that silver on a scrap part and THEN use the Turp/Raw Umber wash on it before trying it on the scratch model. I just don't know what it would do, but my best guess is that it won't work. If I was going to make an aluminum finish and weather it, I wouldn't use paint. I would use the Bare Metal foil product instead. It is a micro thin adhesive backed foil that you burnish on the model. Then I would have no hesitation in using this mixture to weather it!

Bob

 

[moon puppy]

I have used rectified turpentine with all metallic enamels, no problem from the Humbrol buffable metallics to the Testor's gold, silver, brass and copper paints.

Now, if you mean your base coat was a Model Master silver or gold, then I have to tell you, I don't know, I have never washed any model with a silver base coat. I assume you are talking about a natural aluminum finish on an aircraft. I honestly don't know.

Bob

I'm using MM Chrome silver for a base on a scratch build-it will not be the only color on the main body. There are no panel lines or very complex curves but there are a couple of details where I feel paint is to thin - and messy for my skill level, to get a decent wash into some areas- live and learn! Thanks again. CR

Once Dad's lessons are over on OD and I've done one myself, I'll test around with AlcladII base and his weathering technique. A highshine finish will be pointless if you're going to weather it to this point so the basic Alclads will be in order.

We'll put this on our todo list Chip. :dude

 

[Tony lee]

The main difference between rectified and regular turp is the rectified has been processed twice and therefore much more pure.

That makes it more expensive too.
Tony lee

 

[bob letterman]

True Tony! I think they jack it up more than it costs to process it again but, why not, everybody else does!

MP, I will cover the washing of aircraft shortly, not on an Alclad finish, but an OD finish. It is done completely different on aircraft. The mixture is the same, the application is different.

Bob

 

[kryptosdaddy]

Once Dad's lessons are over on OD and I've done one myself, I'll test around with AlcladII base and his weathering technique. A highshine finish will be pointless if you're going to weather it to this point so the basic Alclads will be in order.

We'll put this on our todo list Chip. :dude

I guess I mislead- sorry, I'm debating using it on a gloss surface to add shadow highlights in the recesses on that build in the sci-fi group. Door, nacelles ect. There will not be much detail covered at all- I will not try to weather that body , thats gonna be done on something different. I'm going out tomorrow and I'll get some of that umber and the rectified turp for the Flak Panzer, which is next!

 

[bob letterman]

Once Dad's lessons are over on OD and I've done one myself, I'll test around with AlcladII base and his weathering technique. A highshine finish will be pointless if you're going to weather it to this point so the basic Alclads will be in order.

We'll put this on our todo list Chip. :dude

I guess I mislead- sorry, I'm debating using it on a gloss surface to add shadow highlights in the recesses on that build in the sci-fi group. Door, nacelles ect. There will not be much detail covered at all- I will not try to weather that body , thats gonna be done on something different. I'm going out tomorrow and I'll get some of that umber and the rectified turp for the Flak Panzer, which is next!

I would advise against using this on any gloss painted surface. Never done it but I am certain it would diminish the gloss and maybe damage the finish. Again, test it on something that doesn't matter first.

Bob

 

[bob letterman]

BTW, for those of you who have trouble finding rectified turpentine, Blick Art Supply has it on sale for 40% off the list.

Here's a link.

http://www.dickblick.com/products/shiva-rectified-turpentine/

 

[bob letterman]

Lesson Two The basic wash part 2

BTW, for those of you who have trouble finding rectified turpentine, Blick Art Supply has it on sale for 40% off the list.

Here's a link.

http://www.dickblick.com/products/shiva-rectified-turpentine/

 

[moon puppy]

Nice timing!!

 

[kryptosdaddy]

Thanks, Lowe's, Hobby Lobby ect DO NOT carry it!? I found some at a specialty art supply house downtown in Columbia, $6.99 for 2 oz! 20 bucks for a pint- yowtch! Worse than Crown Royal. Must be great stuff.

 

[piase]

Lesson Two The basic wash part 2

Hello, it's all very interesting!
if the base color is the enamel, it is useful to give a coat of clear warnish before washing?

 

[bob letterman]

Thanks, Lowe's, Hobby Lobby ect DO NOT carry it!? I found some at a specialty art supply house downtown in Columbia, $6.99 for 2 oz! 20 bucks for a pint- yowtch! Worse than Crown Royal. Must be great stuff.

Buy the smallest amount possible. I bought a pint 5 years ago and still have more than a half can and I use it a lot!

Bob

 

[bob letterman]

Lesson Two The basic wash part 2

Hello, it's all very interesting!
if the base color is the enamel, it is useful to give a coat of clear warnish before washing?

Many do that, some don't. I prefer to let mine set for months to harden. Nothing wrong with either way. Your choice.

Clear FLAT varnish though, not glossy.

Bob

 

[Tony lee]

For $11.00 I went ahead and got a pint from Blick. I can always put some on my corn flakes if we run short of milk. :laugh:

Tony lee

 

[bob letterman]

For $11.00 I went ahead and got a pint from Blick. I can always put some on my corn flakes if we run short of milk. :laugh:

Tony lee

When I was in my twenties, I might have tried that Tony! Peace, Love and Soul!!!!

Bob