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Roman's Stug III B

Roman

Member
The first photo has photographed against the monitor with an open PMMS that it was possible to understand real date. I haven't found a newspaper with number representation of month.
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Aber shock absorbers
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So, I decided to use Mig Notek light and headlights from Elf
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Roman's Stug III B (updated 22.11.2009 Iwata time)

Hi!
So, I started to paint my Stug.

Base color:
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First cycle of highlight:
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Second cycle of highlight:
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First steps of weathering:
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Re: Roman's Stug III B (updated 22.11.2009 Iwata time)

looking good Roman of Siberia, I still don't understand how you armor guys can paint the tools and other doo dads already installed on the model..
 
Re: Roman's Stug III B (updated 22.11.2009 Iwata time)

Thanks, Bob.

I think to palm off a piece of paper between fender and tools.
 
Re:Roman's Stug III B (MK Tracks ready)

Thanks guys

I finished Tracks...
The first track has been made quickly enough, and here at assemblage of the second I have started missing.
Probably such set has got to me, but from it not to make two tracks for PZ IV, I made 2 tracks each of 93 track links + I have 6 spare track links. And MK says than for Pz IV you will need 99 - 101 track links.
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Now I'm thinking about diorama plan, and figures... Probably it will be the old Tamiya figures (35030 and 35061) which I found in my case.
 
That is a nice looking little Stug you have there. The fenders are fantastic, and the tracks look real good. I can hardly wait to see you start to do more weathering to the solid dark German grey.

Gary B)
 
Re:Roman's Stug III B (13-12-09 updated)

So...

I applied Archer dry transfers, sprayed Stug with Humbrol satin cote, than with MIG blue filter.

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Base paint of soldier

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And I started the diorama base

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Re:Roman's Stug III B (13-12-09 updated)

Hi Roman,

The stug and base are coming along pretty well.

Great effort on the etchwork.

Cheers
Michael :)
 
Thanks all.

So... Yesterday I tried to highlight the roof of fighting compartment with MIG pigment (panzer gray faded) and fix it with pigment fixer by MIG. The result is shown on photo below.

img_1141_1_20091214_1349700337.jpg


Than I tried to correct with PVA Tempera wash, than with enamel light gray wash (middle of roof), than I decided to try only light gray wash...
After all experiments I decided that the best way to correct all results is to over spray the roof.
I do not have ideas why the pigment instead of light tone has given dark tone...
 
THe build is very clean and perfect!

I also like the paint work!

I always feel uneasy when I come to apply the washes & pigments to my models. I stay thinking a week before as to what pigments I'll be using and who to tackle it. I don't have a standard approach and every model is tackled differently.

A lot of practice makes perfect....... I think :huh:

Regards
Noel
 
Beautiful work Roman - your build is inspiration for my own :)

Pity about the pigment issues, it may be the type of carrier you used. Did you use mineral turpentine? I found I had this sort of "whiting" whenever I used it. I changed to using Humbrol Thinners or pure turpentine (like a white spirit) instead and haven't had issues since.

Rudi
 
Thanks guys

Now I will use pigments more carefully :)

Here photos of repainted stug. Than I use dark wash, satin cote and blue MIG filter.

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Hi Roman:

That is really looking nice. My favorite part of modelling is the building/detailing/scratchbuilding stuff. But after that it is the part where the decals go on and then the weathering. That is what really brings them to life for me. And yours is really coming to life, it looks great. And it reminds me of mine, that I need to get out and do some work on amongst all the other dozen or so things I got going now.

Gary B)
 
Thanks Gary

I like building and detailing models too. But I'm afraid to paint. Bad painting can spoil all multi monthly work over model.
 
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