Got the Jumbo finished. I'm thinking since I have so many O.D. models to weather, I'll just do a couple more as everybody catches up. Each model always has it's own unique areas of weathering, so...... Why not?
I'll begin this one with rusting. The artist's oil burnt sienna is a natural for rusting. It is the basic color of rust and there are so many ways to use it for rust. The basics; I just squeeze a tiny bit onto the palette. Then add some rectified turpentine and mix to the consistency of whole milk.
Then using a fine pointed brush as shown, plus a larger, clean, dry brush, paint two tiny drops of the sienna on a vertical surface as shown.
Then using the larger dry brush, (Or your finger), touch the drops and drag downward, leaving tiny streaks as shown.
Then do so on the other side of the hull. Then a drop here and there where rust would normally collect. Don't overdo this as it will ruin the appearance. In weathering, always in moderation. Too much will have the reverse effect that you want.
This belonged in the Diamond T tutorial, I forgot it but will stick it in here.
When building softskins, a great material for windows is Micro slips. They are the micro thin covers for microscope slides. I cut them with a diamond phonograph needle just as a glazier cuts full scale glass. I attach the needle to a tube and using a metal ruler, scribe the dimensions onto the tiny glass and break on a straight edge,
Shown here are the micro slips and the home made glass cutter.
A box of slips.
Note how thin. They are so much more to scale than the clear plastic that comes with the kit.
For chipped paint, I use the Humbrol 270003 metallic polished steel. I use a tiny artificial sponge to apply it, then keep jabbing it on a clean piece of white paper till it only leaves tiny dots. Then apply to areas of the vehicle where you want chips. After drying, you can buff with a clean cloth a bit to get a metallic shine.
For buildings, I use a larger, natural sponge as shown.
Then I can get the kind of effect of peeling and chipped paint as shown.
To make scratches, Take a very fine brush and a paint much darker, (Not black) than your finish. Make a streak and let it dry. Then with a slightly lighter color and the same cleaned, fine brush, make a very fine line immediately next to the dark line, just on top. See Below.
I covered the tracks in an earlier lesson, but, after installed, I dry brush lightly the raised portions only with Humbrol 270003, polished steel. After drying, polish them to a shine with a clean, soft cloth.
NOw, here are some pics of the Jumbo after completed, with figures of the crew and tank riders. The crew have the insignia of the 4th armored division, while the riders are of the 79th Infantry Division.
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For effect, I set the Jumbo on the base it will eventually go. I now have two of the Shermans finished, only 6 more to go.
Now, for the next lesson, I will begin from the start on two vehicles, the scratch built road grader and the half-scratch built gasoline duece and a half.
If you have any questions or if anything is vague or difficult to understand, that's what I'm here for.
Bob
I'll begin this one with rusting. The artist's oil burnt sienna is a natural for rusting. It is the basic color of rust and there are so many ways to use it for rust. The basics; I just squeeze a tiny bit onto the palette. Then add some rectified turpentine and mix to the consistency of whole milk.
Then using a fine pointed brush as shown, plus a larger, clean, dry brush, paint two tiny drops of the sienna on a vertical surface as shown.
Then using the larger dry brush, (Or your finger), touch the drops and drag downward, leaving tiny streaks as shown.
Then do so on the other side of the hull. Then a drop here and there where rust would normally collect. Don't overdo this as it will ruin the appearance. In weathering, always in moderation. Too much will have the reverse effect that you want.
This belonged in the Diamond T tutorial, I forgot it but will stick it in here.
When building softskins, a great material for windows is Micro slips. They are the micro thin covers for microscope slides. I cut them with a diamond phonograph needle just as a glazier cuts full scale glass. I attach the needle to a tube and using a metal ruler, scribe the dimensions onto the tiny glass and break on a straight edge,
Shown here are the micro slips and the home made glass cutter.
A box of slips.
Note how thin. They are so much more to scale than the clear plastic that comes with the kit.
For chipped paint, I use the Humbrol 270003 metallic polished steel. I use a tiny artificial sponge to apply it, then keep jabbing it on a clean piece of white paper till it only leaves tiny dots. Then apply to areas of the vehicle where you want chips. After drying, you can buff with a clean cloth a bit to get a metallic shine.
For buildings, I use a larger, natural sponge as shown.
Then I can get the kind of effect of peeling and chipped paint as shown.
To make scratches, Take a very fine brush and a paint much darker, (Not black) than your finish. Make a streak and let it dry. Then with a slightly lighter color and the same cleaned, fine brush, make a very fine line immediately next to the dark line, just on top. See Below.
I covered the tracks in an earlier lesson, but, after installed, I dry brush lightly the raised portions only with Humbrol 270003, polished steel. After drying, polish them to a shine with a clean, soft cloth.
NOw, here are some pics of the Jumbo after completed, with figures of the crew and tank riders. The crew have the insignia of the 4th armored division, while the riders are of the 79th Infantry Division.
[
For effect, I set the Jumbo on the base it will eventually go. I now have two of the Shermans finished, only 6 more to go.
Now, for the next lesson, I will begin from the start on two vehicles, the scratch built road grader and the half-scratch built gasoline duece and a half.
If you have any questions or if anything is vague or difficult to understand, that's what I'm here for.
Bob
