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Neutral Zone Infraction.

ausf

ausf

Master at Arms
This is a test.

I'm in a serious modeling funk. Even though the weather has turned to beautiful building temps, I can't scare up interest. In an attempt to break out, I ordered a few kits I've always wanted to build as well as the new Vallejo metal colors.


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First up is will be a platform to test out some ideas. I want to put lights in both models of course, but the Enterprise has quite a few levels. Since the Klingon ship is only 9 inches long, you can get an idea of the challenge it'll be to open up the ports. If they were simple rounds it would be relatively easy, but they're rectangles and very small. The drill bit I used as a test was and is scale for the enterprise is .65 mm. No way in hell I can cut a rectangle window that size and be consistent.

I tried a some different methods, including using clear sheet styrene (.005) masked and painted that I would apply like a veneer. The masking was impossible to keep consistent at that size, plus applying painted sheets to the contours has too many opportunities for disaster.

I tested sawing a line, cleaning up the edges, then inserting plastic stock to fill the areas in between the windows, painting, then adding clear sheet styrene behind it. That actually worked very well, it's just going to be a task to keep the lines parallel, especially on the Enterprise. The other nightmare is the hull has to be painted before assembly so the clear sheet and LEDs can be fitted after paint (Unless I can get liquid mask in the tiny openings) then assemble and seal fixing and more paint.

At least the Romulan ship only has four rows of lights and I can change the construction to I can access after paint without seems.

Here's the Rom's color scheme, a few metallic tones and the big warbird:

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I couldn't resist a quick snap together to check out it's attitude and size.

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Umm a thought. . .

You are going to cut a slot for several windows, correct? Why not cut the slot and fit a piece of thick clear stock, smooth the surface to match and then just mask some rectangular spots for the windows?
 
Thanks guys.

Paul, that was my first thought too, but testing out masking on a scrap piece of clear proved (at least to me) nearly impossible with and tape I have (Tamiya, masking, blue, even copper and aluminum) since the opening is approximately .75 of a mm or 0.03". Even if I could get a perfectly rectangled area, keep a line of them with be mind boggling. I then tried priming and painting a sheet, then scraping the window shapes out. That was promising, but even after grinding a tiny chisel type tool to make .03 squared scrapes and building a jig so everything was lined up, it still had a high chance of being inconsistent. And toughing up after would be a horror show.

Building with clear sheet and consistent-width styrene stock works a lot better for me. I tested a bit, using Tamiya thin, then masking the opening with latex. It'll be much better and I can assemble before paint that way, with all the electronics installed. Any paint residue should clean up after with minimal problem on the clear surface since I'll be either floating Future or Crystal Clear into the window pane. I'll be sanding and tinting the backside of the clear to fog it anyway.

Of course the smart way would be to just buy and build the 1/350 version with the light kit, but who ever said I was smart... :D :woohoo:
 
Got some work done.

I had to open up the face plate, sand down the upper piece and add a support for the clear sheet.

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Then the head was assembled:

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Clear sheet installed (sanded to be opaque):

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The horizontal framework:

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A test of the lighting. It won't be as hot and I'm hoping there will be no bleed through of the frame when there's a coat of both gloss black primer and metallic paint:

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Now the hard part of adding the inserts and sanding it flush.
 
Thanks for following along guys!

I filled in the gaps with .005 styrene, mimicing the show footage, not the model's decal array of windows:

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Here's a screen grab for comparison:

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Then sanded flush to see where I need to putty. Just need to clean up the windows better, the sanding residue is caked in the corners, then putty, repeat.

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That is looking real good Ausf! I know how small that kit is. Looks like you nailed the window pattern just about right! (y)
 
Thanks Eagle!

I may try to thin and adjust a few when I putty, but I'm not going to worry too much. The kit is 9 inches total length and most likely will be hanging up high in a corner somewhere. B)
 
Jeff, it is great to see you building again. That is a tremendous job on those windows. Especially stunning considering the size of the model! Well done! (y)
 
Thanks guys.

Got a bit more done. A lot of sawing and scaling to the lower part, but I've wrestled into shape and glued it all together. Just have to put in the window dividers like up top, then sand and putty all the nasty seams.


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There's 5 LEDs n there total, 2 aimed at each side and one up top for the green lights. It's a one way trip...

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Me personally, I've never been a sci-fi geek, but that ship looks pretty good.
By the way, nice clips! :dude

Clear up right!
Tim
 
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